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Hello R&D Team, I would like to formulate a light-coverage liquid foundation and I would like your input.

First I make mineral makeup powder with non-micronized Titanium Dioxide, sericite mica, Zinc Oxide, Magnesium Stearate, Iron Oxide, Babassu Oil and Vitamin E.

Then:

Heated phase

Mineral make up: 40%
Fractionated Coconut Oil: 1.75%
BB Micro Silk: 6%
Cetearyl Alcohol: 18%
LipidSoft CC: 30%
Dimethicone: 3%
SiliPerse: 0.25%

Cold phase
Vitamin E: 0.5%
Mildpreserve: 0.5%

I think only Cetearyl Alcohol requires the temp around 70C? not so sure if everything else can be then mixed below 40C?

Thank you

Hi,

It will not be easy to separate heat / non-heat procedure in this formulation because when it cools down and viscosity increases, it won't be easy to add more ingredients into it.

We suggest that you mix everything with heat. Cetearyl Alcohol is likely to melt since 50C+ so it's not very high temp that will degrades any of your ingredients.

hi team, the above formula became too solid and I need to use my finger tips to apply it. sometimes the powder does not disperse well. need it to be more liquid.

can you point me to the right directions how I can have the product easier to apply, make it more liquid, and can you recommend me ingredients which do not need long blending?

Hi,

Your formulation will need to be changed to Water-in-Oil system

start with changing the Emulsifier to Warp Cream Maker as the main Emulsifier of the formulation

Oil + silicone can be up to about 20-40% of the formulation

The remaining part can be colors, powder and water to 100%

Ex:

Warp Cream Maker 15%
Cyclopentasiloxane 20%
Dimethicone 5%
SiliPerse 0.25%

BB Micro Silk 5%
Colors 1-5%

Water to 100%

Make sure you mix the oil part first, then slowly add the water part into the oil part while mixing.

Thank you. for colors, I have been having some problem figuring out the right ratio to adjust the brightness. let's say I keep the color as 5%, but if I want to add Zinc Oxide, do I add additionally Zinc Oxide on top of color?

Do I still need to use Titanium Dioxide if my skin colour is darker than beige + Zinc Oxide?

In this formula, do I need to add serecite mica additionally?

If Iron Oxide, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide and serecite mica needs to be up to 5% in the above formula, what kind of ratio can I mix these additional compounds? (from another source, for a slightly tanned skin colour, it seems to be something like 8:8:4:1 for Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, serecite mica, Iron Oxide)

Warp Cream Maker 15%
Cyclopentasiloxane 20%
Dimethicone 5%
SiliPerse 0.25%
BB Micro Silk 5%
Colors 1-5%
Water to 100%

Titanium Dioxide will not only help brighten the color shade but also increase the coverage on the skin. If you do not use Titanium Dioxide, you may need to use Mica, Sericite or Talc to provide good skin coverage.

If Iron Oxide, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide and serecite mica needs to be up to 5% in the above formula, what kind of ratio can I mix these additional compounds? (from another source, for a slightly tanned skin colour, it seems to be something like 8:8:4:1 for Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, serecite mica, Iron Oxide)

I can't provide the exact ratio of this. it's very much depends on the color tone and coverage that you prefer.

Warp Cream Maker 15%
Cyclopentasiloxane 20%
Dimethicone 5%
SiliPerse 0.25%
BB Micro Silk 5%
Colors 1-5%
Water to 100%

If the formulation is too viscous (due to the high water content), you can replace some of the water by Cyclopentasiloxane (or other silicone oils)

Preservative 1%
water

It has a light coverage, and as long as it is applied in a small amount, it spread very well. but anymore, makes it a bit cakey. (actually I had to add extra TiO2 to make it paler so it was more than 5% colour)

what ingredients can you add to this in order to make it a bit more moisturizing to the skin & make it smoother, for example Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (aka. Pitera), WaterLock, skinbarrier or something else? the current formula makes the skin feel a bit dry and accentuates some fine facial lines.

Thank you!

Hi,

Since there is "water" phase of the formulation, you can always add any water-soluble ingredients into the water phase. You may also consider adding oil-soluble moisturizing ingredient into the formulation as well.